Fittonia Care: Master the Art of Growing the Nerve Plant Indoors

Fittonia care can be a rewarding experience, whether you're growing pink, red or dwarf fittonia plants. I used to think Fittonia—also called the nerve plant—was impossible to keep alive.

It turns out I was wrong, but only after killing two of them! Fittonia are high-maintenance divas when you first meet them, but with the right care, they’ll thrive like nothing else. 

Fun fact: Fittonia is known as the "Nerve Plant" due to its striking leaf veins that resemble a nervous system!

• Botanical Name: Fittonia albivenis
• Family: Acanthaceae
• Plant Type: Perennial
• Sun Exposure: Indirect, low to medium light
• Soil Type: Well-draining, peat-based potting mix
• Soil pH: Slightly acidic (5.5–6.5)
• Bloom Time: Rarely blooms indoors, but blooms during summer outdoors
• Flower Color: Small, white or off-white flowers
• Hardiness Zones: 11–12 (typically grown indoors)
• Water Needs: High, keep the soil consistently moist
• Height: 3–6 inches
• Spread: 12–18 inches
• Sowing: Can be propagated via stem cuttings or division
• Native Area: South America, specifically rainforests in Peru

Benefits of Growing Fittonia: Why Bother with the Drama?

Okay, I’ll be honest. Fittonia can be a little needy, but they’re totally worth it. If you’re looking for a plant that adds a pop of color and doesn’t take up much space, these babies are perfect.

I love using them to add a burst of life to my terrariums—they thrive in humidity! And, bonus: they help purify the air, which is always a plus. You'll also get this tiny feeling of triumph when you bring a wilted Fittonia back from the brink. Trust me, it’s a rewarding experience.

Types of Fittonia

Fittonia comes in various beautiful colors and patterns, making them a standout choice for any indoor plant enthusiast. Below are four common types you’ll love. Let’s take a closer look at each one.

1. Fittonia Pink

This is one of the most popular types of Fittonia, and it’s easy to see why. The leaves are deep green with vibrant pink veins that run through each one, giving it a striking contrast. I’ve used this variety to add a feminine touch to my terrarium, and it always draws attention.

• Care Tip: Pink Fittonia requires indirect light and high humidity to maintain those vivid colors. If the pink fades, it might be a sign that it’s not getting enough light. Move it to a spot with brighter, indirect light and mist it frequently to keep the humidity high.

2. Fittonia Red

Fittonia Red is bold and dramatic. The green leaves are crisscrossed with veins that are an intense red, giving the plant a fiery appearance. This variety adds a pop of energy to any indoor plant setup.

• Care Tip: Red Fittonia is slightly more light-tolerant than its pink counterpart but still thrives in low to medium light. If the leaves look dull, it could mean it needs a bit more indirect light. Water it consistently to keep it happy but avoid waterlogged soil.

3. Fittonia White

Fittonia White has bright green leaves with intricate white veins that give it an elegant look. This type feels a bit more subdued compared to the colorful varieties, but it’s perfect for creating a calming atmosphere in your space. It adds a cool, fresh vibe to terrariums or small indoor gardens.

• Care Tip: This one is more sensitive to overwatering. I learned this the hard way—too much water, and the leaves started wilting. Make sure the soil is well-draining, and don’t leave it sitting in water for too long.

4. Fittonia Mini (Dwarf Fittonia)

The dwarf Fittonia has smaller leaves compared to the others but packs a punch with its variety of colors. These come in pink, red, and white, just like the larger types, but are perfect if you’re looking to fit more plants into a smaller space. This variety is especially great for terrariums, where space is limited.

• Care Tip: Dwarf Fittonia needs more frequent misting than the others because of its small size and delicate leaves. Keep the environment humid and watch it thrive!

When to Plant Fittonia: Timing is Everything!

Fittonia are tropical plants, so they love warmth and moisture. I recommend planting them in the spring when the temperature is warmer and humidity levels are on the rise. That said, if you’re growing them indoors, they can thrive year-round as long as you keep them warm and mist them regularly. Trust me, I learned this the hard way—my first Fittonia didn’t make it through a cold snap when I left it by the window. Never again!

Fittonia Care Guide: A Step-by-Step Journey

Fittonia plants might be drama queens, but caring for them doesn’t have to be a nightmare. Here’s the lowdown on how to keep them happy, based on my own trial and error.

Light

Fittonia loves indirect light. Direct sunlight will scorch those delicate leaves, and trust me, you don't want that. Keep them in a spot with bright, indirect light or even low light. My nerve plant thrives in a shady corner that gets just a hint of morning sun.

Soil

The soil for Fittonia needs to be well-draining, but with enough moisture retention to stay damp—basically, the Goldilocks of soils. I use a peat-based mix with perlite to make sure it doesn’t dry out or get waterlogged. I once used regular potting soil, and yeah... don’t do that.

Water

Here’s where things get tricky. Fittonia needs a lot of water but hates soggy soil. I water mine about twice a week, more in summer when the air is dry.

The trick is to keep the soil moist, but not soaking wet. If your Fittonia starts to droop, that’s its way of asking for a drink. I find that misting the leaves helps too, especially in winter when indoor heating dries everything out.

Temperature & Humidity

Fittonia loves warmth and humidity. Keep them in temperatures between 65°F to 80°F (18°C to 27°C). In terms of humidity, aim for at least 60%.

I keep a little humidifier nearby, and it's been a game-changer. They’ll throw a tantrum (wilt) if the air is too dry. Humidity hacks like grouping plants together or using a pebble tray work wonders too.

Fertilizer

I feed my Fittonia every month during spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength. Don’t overdo it, though—too much fertilizer can actually do more harm than good.

Pruning

I used to be afraid of pruning my Fittonia, but giving it a light trim actually encourages it to grow bushier! Snip off any leggy or yellowing stems, and the plant will reward you with more compact growth. Just don’t go overboard.

Fittonia Care Indoors: Your New Indoor Bestie

If you’re keeping Fittonia inside (which I totally recommend), make sure to give it a nice, cozy spot. Somewhere with enough humidity, away from direct sunlight, and close to a humidifier is perfect.

Mine lives happily on a shelf next to the bathroom window where it gets just the right amount of light and moisture. It’s like a mini rainforest in there!

Fittonia Care Outdoors: Only for the Brave

To be honest, I wouldn’t recommend growing Fittonia outside unless you live in a tropical area. They’re not fans of temperature changes or direct sunlight.

If you’re set on it, keep them in a shaded spot and be prepared to baby them with regular watering and misting. They’ll let you know if they’re unhappy—trust me.

Fittonia Care in a Terrarium: The Perfect Humid Environment

Fittonia thrives in humid environments, which is why they make perfect candidates for terrariums. Terrariums create a self-sustaining ecosystem, trapping moisture inside—a dream setup for nerve plants. Here’s how to set up your Fittonia in a terrarium step-by-step.

Step 1: Choose Your Container

You can use either a closed or open terrarium, but closed terrariums work best for Fittonia because they maintain high humidity levels. I love using a glass jar with a lid—it’s both affordable and easy to find.

Step 2: Create a Drainage Layer

This is crucial! Without proper drainage, your plant could get root rot. Start with a layer of pebbles or small stones at the bottom of your terrarium, about 1–2 inches thick. Over the stones, sprinkle activated charcoal to keep things fresh and prevent mold.

Step 3: Add the Soil

Fittonia loves moist, well-draining soil. Use a peat-based potting mix with perlite for extra aeration. Add about 2–3 inches of soil, enough for your Fittonia’s roots to spread out comfortably.

Step 4: Plant Your Fittonia

Dig a small hole in the soil, then gently place your Fittonia into the terrarium. Press the soil around the base of the plant to secure it, but don’t pack it too tightly. Leave some space for airflow.

Step 5: Add Decorative Elements

This step is optional, but I like to add small stones, moss, or miniature figurines to give the terrarium a personal touch. It helps turn your Fittonia terrarium into a little living art piece.

Step 6: Water and Seal the Terrarium

Give your Fittonia a light watering. The soil should be moist but not soaked. Then, seal the terrarium with a lid. Closed terrariums recycle water through evaporation and condensation, so you won’t need to water it often—maybe once every couple of weeks.

Terrarium Maintenance Tips

• Light: Place the terrarium in bright, indirect light. Direct sunlight will heat up the glass, creating a greenhouse effect and potentially burning the plant.
• Watering: Because the terrarium is sealed, the water will recycle itself. Open the lid occasionally to allow air circulation and avoid mold buildup.
• Humidity: Fittonia thrives in the high humidity of a terrarium, but if you notice it wilting, open the lid for a few hours and mist the plant.

Fittonia Propagation

Propagating Fittonia is surprisingly easy, and you can use it as an opportunity to grow more plants or revive a leggy one. Here’s how you can propagate Fittonia using two methods: stem cuttings in water and soil.

Method 1: Water Propagation

Step 1: Choose a Healthy Stem

Select a healthy stem that’s about 3–5 inches long and has at least one or two leaf nodes (the place where the leaves grow from the stem).

Step 2: Make the Cut

Using clean scissors, cut the stem just below a leaf node. Make sure your tools are sanitized to prevent any bacterial infections.

Step 3: Place in Water

Put the cut end of the stem in a small container of water. I like using clear jars or glasses so I can easily see when the roots start to form. Make sure no leaves are submerged in the water.

Step 4: Wait for Roots to Grow

Place the jar in a bright spot with indirect light. You should start to see roots forming within a couple of weeks. Change the water every few days to keep it fresh.

Step 5: Transfer to Soil

Once the roots are about 1–2 inches long, you can transfer the cutting to soil. Plant it in a small pot with a well-draining soil mix, and keep the soil moist for the first few weeks while the plant adjusts.

Method 2: Soil Propagation

Step 1: Choose and Cut a Healthy Stem

Like the water method, start by selecting a healthy stem with a leaf node and making a clean cut just below the node.

Step 2: Prepare a Pot

Fill a small pot with moist, well-draining soil. I usually use a peat-perlite mix for this step.

Step 3: Plant the Cutting

Bury the cut end of the stem into the soil, making sure the leaf node is just under the surface. Press the soil lightly around the cutting to secure it.

Step 4: Maintain Humidity

To increase your chances of success, cover the pot with a plastic bag to create a mini greenhouse. This helps retain humidity. Make sure the plastic doesn’t touch the leaves.

Step 5: Water Regularly

Keep the soil moist (but not soggy) and place the pot in indirect light. After a few weeks, your cutting should establish roots, and you’ll see new growth.

How to Make Fittonia Bushy

The key to a bushy Fittonia? Pruning. Regularly snip off the tips of the stems to encourage new growth. I’ve also noticed that keeping the plant in high humidity helps it grow fuller. The more humidity, the bushier it gets—simple as that!

Overwintering Fittonia

Fittonia don’t like the cold. During winter, keep them away from drafty windows and make sure the temperature stays above 65°F (18°C). I move mine to a warmer room and cut back on watering a bit, since they don’t need as much moisture when they’re not actively growing.

Troubleshooting Fittonia

Fittonia can be finicky, and trust me, you’ll know when they’re unhappy. Let’s go over some common issues and how to fix them.

1. Drooping or Wilting Leaves

Fittonia are notorious for wilting dramatically when they don’t get enough water. This was one of the first problems I ran into, and I panicked! But don’t worry—it’s usually a quick fix. If your plant is drooping, it’s likely due to underwatering or low humidity.

Solution:

Water the plant immediately and mist the leaves to raise the humidity level. Within a few hours, you should see it perk up again. If the soil feels dry, increase your watering frequency.

2. Yellowing Leaves

Yellowing leaves are usually a sign of overwatering. If you notice the leaves turning yellow and feeling soft, you might be drowning your Fittonia.

Solution:

Let the soil dry out before watering again. Check that your pot has drainage holes and avoid leaving the plant in standing water.

3. Leggy Growth

If your Fittonia looks sparse and the stems are growing long and thin, it’s likely not getting enough light.

Solution:

Move the plant to a spot with more indirect light. Prune back the leggy growth to encourage new, bushier growth.

Pests and Diseases: What to Watch Out For

Though Fittonia is relatively resistant to pests, they’re not entirely immune. Here’s what to look out for and how to deal with it.

1. Spider Mites

Spider mites are tiny pests that can be hard to spot at first but can quickly wreak havoc on your Fittonia. You’ll notice tiny webs or speckled leaves, and the plant may start to look dull and lifeless. I once ignored a small web, and within a week, the whole plant was crawling with mites—yikes!

Solution: 

First, isolate the plant from your other indoor plants to prevent the mites from spreading. Then, spray the plant with a mixture of water and neem oil or insecticidal soap.

Make sure to get both sides of the leaves. Repeat the treatment every few days until the infestation is gone. Also, raise the humidity around the plant since spider mites thrive in dry environments.

2. Mealybugs

These tiny, white, cotton-like insects love hiding in the crevices of your Fittonia’s leaves. They suck the sap from the plant, which weakens it over time. I’ve battled mealybugs a couple of times, and they can be a stubborn pest to get rid of.

Solution:

You can dab mealybugs with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to kill them on contact. For a more widespread issue, treat the plant with insecticidal soap or neem oil. As always, be consistent with your treatments—one round usually won’t be enough. Check every couple of days to ensure they’re gone.

3. Root Rot

Root rot is a disease that often goes hand-in-hand with overwatering. If the leaves are turning yellow and the soil stays constantly soggy, your Fittonia might be suffering from root rot. The roots will become mushy and black when affected.

Solution:

Take the plant out of its pot and examine the roots. If they’re black and mushy, trim away the rotted parts with sterilized scissors. Repot the plant in fresh, well-draining soil and reduce your watering. Moving forward, only water when the top inch of the soil feels dry.

4. Powdery Mildew

This is a fungal disease that looks like a white powder covering the leaves. It thrives in damp, humid environments—which, ironically, is exactly where Fittonia thrives too!

Solution:

Increase air circulation around your plant. In the short term, treat the mildew by wiping the leaves with a cloth dipped in a water and baking soda mixture. For larger outbreaks, use a fungicide. Make sure to reduce the humidity slightly and open up your terrarium occasionally if this becomes a recurring issue.

5. Aphids

Aphids are tiny green insects that feed on plant sap. They tend to cluster on new growth and can cause leaves to become distorted or curled. I once noticed the new leaves of my Fittonia looked wrinkled and, sure enough, found aphids hiding on the undersides.

Solution:

A strong blast of water can knock them off, but I’ve found that a neem oil spray works better for long-term control. Be persistent with treatment, as aphids can reproduce quickly.

Final Thoughts: Mastering Fittonia Care

Fittonia care might feel like a challenge at first, but once you get the hang of it, it’s super rewarding. These plants add a ton of beauty to any space, and with the right care, they’ll thrive.

If you’ve got any tips or stories about your Fittonia journey, drop them in the comments—I’d love to hear them! And remember, if your Fittonia throws a tantrum, don’t give up. With a little patience, it’ll bounce back.

External Resources: For more tips on fittonia care, check out Houseplant House, The Spruce, and Garden Design

FAQ

Does Fittonia need sunlight?

Yes, Fittonia needs sunlight, but it prefers indirect light. Direct sunlight can burn its delicate leaves, so place it in bright, filtered light or low-light areas indoors for the best results.

How often should you water a Fittonia?

Water Fittonia when the top inch of the soil feels dry. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, and don’t let the plant sit in standing water, as this can cause root rot.

Is Fittonia a good indoor plant?

Fittonia is an excellent indoor plant, especially for terrariums or areas with high humidity. Its vibrant veins add a pop of color to any indoor garden, and it thrives in low to medium light conditions.

Is Fittonia hard to care for?

Fittonia can be a bit finicky due to its need for high humidity and consistent moisture. However, with the right environment—indirect light, moist soil, and regular misting—it’s fairly easy to care for and can thrive indoors.