When I first heard about growing potatoes in straw, I was skeptical. I mean, straw? Really? It sounded too easy, and gardening never seemed easy to me. But guess what? It works. In fact, potatoes are one of the few veggies that actually thrive in a bed of straw.
Did you know you can grow 100 pounds of potatoes in just 4 square feet using this method? Unbelievable, right?! But stick with me, and I’ll show you how I got my best potato harvest ever—and with way less back-breaking work.
Why Should You Care About Growing Potatoes in Straw?
Okay, I get it—you’re probably wondering why you should even bother trying this method. Well, let me tell you, it’s a game-changer. First, you don’t need to dig up your garden. That’s right—no dig potatoes.
You simply lay them down, cover them with straw, and watch the magic happen. Also, if you're into no-till gardening or are just tired of breaking your back every growing season, this method's for you.
I remember when I tried growing potatoes the traditional way, and boy, was it a pain. My back was aching for days from all the digging and weeding. Plus, the potatoes didn’t even turn out that great. But with straw? Total win.
It's a low-maintenance, high-reward system, and who doesn't want that in gardening?
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About Potato Straw
Before diving into the “how-to,” let’s quickly cover what potato straw even means. You’re probably picturing dry, yellow stalks of straw, and that’s exactly it. Straw is basically the dry stalks left over from harvested grains like wheat or barley. And it’s perfect for growing potatoes because it keeps the soil nice and loose while retaining moisture—exactly what your taters need.
But here’s a mistake I made the first time: I used hay instead of straw. Rookie move! Hay is full of seeds, so I ended up with a garden of weeds instead of potatoes. Make sure you use straw, not hay, or you’ll be pulling grass instead of harvesting spuds.
Fun Fact: Potatoes were first domesticated over 7,000 years ago in the Andes Mountains of Peru! They are now one of the world's most important staple crops.
Potato Plant Information
- Botanical Name: Solanum tuberosum
- Family: Solanaceae (Nightshade family)
- Plant Type: Annual vegetable, tuber
- Sun Exposure: Full sun (at least 6-8 hours a day)
- Soil Type: Loose, well-draining, sandy or loamy soil
- Soil pH: Slightly acidic, 5.0-6.5
- Hardiness Zones: 3-10 (grown as an annual)
- Water Needs: Moderate to high, especially during tuber development
- Height: 12-30 inches (varies by variety)
- Spread: 18-36 inches
- Sowing: Direct sow seed potatoes or plant tuber pieces in early spring after the danger of frost has passed
- Native Area: South America (Andes region)
Benefits of Growing Potatoes in Straw
Okay, now that you know what potato straw is, let’s talk about why this method rocks. There are tons of benefits to growing potatoes in straw, so much so that I honestly don’t know why anyone would go back to traditional growing.
- No Digging Required
If you hate digging, this method is a lifesaver. Potatoes grow right in the straw, and when it’s time to harvest, all you have to do is lift the straw and grab your potatoes. Easy peasy. - Weed-Free Growing
Remember how I said I accidentally grew weeds when I used hay? Well, using straw prevents that. It acts as a natural mulch, so weeds can’t break through. Less work for you! - Great for Moisture Retention
Potatoes need moisture, but too much water can lead to rot. Straw helps balance this perfectly. It holds enough moisture for the potatoes but allows for good airflow to prevent soggy spuds. - Pest Control
Ever had bugs munch on your potatoes? Yeah, me too. Straw helps reduce pests by keeping the tubers off the soil, where many pests like to hang out.
Types of Potatoes Grown in Straw
Now, let’s talk potato varieties. While you can grow pretty much any potato in straw, some varieties work better than others. Personally, I’ve had great success with Yukon Gold and Red Norland—they seem to love straw growing. But don’t be afraid to experiment with different types. There’s nothing like the feeling of pulling up a bunch of colorful potatoes at the end of the season.
Pro tip: Stick with early or mid-season varieties, especially if this is your first time trying straw growing. They mature faster, giving you a better chance of success before any possible pest or weather issues arise.
When to Grow Potatoes in Straw
Timing is everything when it comes to growing potatoes. In most areas, you’ll want to plant them in early spring, once the soil temperature hits around 45°F (7°C). I usually plant mine right around the time the dandelions start popping up in the yard—that’s a good sign that it’s time to get your potatoes in the ground.
If you're growing potatoes in containers or bags, you can actually start a bit earlier since the soil warms up faster.
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Tips for Growing Potatoes in Straw
Growing potatoes in straw is one of the easiest and most rewarding gardening methods. It cuts down on labor, improves yields, and makes harvesting incredibly simple. If you’re tired of all the digging and back-breaking work that comes with traditional potato planting, this method is for you. Let’s walk through the steps!
1. Choosing the Right Location
First things first: location. You’ll want a sunny spot where your potatoes can bask in at least 6 hours of sunlight a day. Potatoes love the sun, and the more they get, the better they’ll grow. I usually look for an area of my garden that isn’t shaded by trees or buildings, which can block sunlight.
If you're short on garden space, no worries! This method works great in containers or raised beds, too. Just make sure wherever you plant has good drainage—potatoes hate soggy conditions.
2. Prepping the Ground
To avoid weeds and grass from overtaking your potato bed, start by covering the ground with a layer of newspaper or cardboard. This will act as a barrier and prevent any unwanted plants from sprouting up and stealing nutrients from your potatoes.
Lay the newspaper or cardboard down thick, overlapping the edges so no weeds can sneak through the gaps. Trust me, this part is important—I once skipped this step and spent half my growing season battling crabgrass.
3. Preparing the Seed Potatoes
Now for the fun part—seed potatoes! These are regular potatoes that have started to sprout little “eyes,” which will grow into your new plants. When choosing seed potatoes, pick certified disease-free varieties from a local nursery or gardening center. You can technically use grocery store potatoes, but they might not be as reliable, and you risk introducing disease into your garden.
Cut your seed potatoes into chunks, ensuring each piece has at least 1-2 eyes. Let them sit for a day or two to allow the cut edges to dry out and form a callous—this helps prevent rot once they’re in the ground.
4. Planting the Potatoes
With your ground prepped and seed potatoes ready, it’s time to plant! Lay your potato pieces directly on top of the cardboard or newspaper, spacing them about 12-18 inches apart. This spacing gives the plants plenty of room to grow and helps prevent overcrowding, which can lead to smaller yields.
Don’t worry about burying them in the soil. The beauty of this method is that the potatoes grow in the straw, not the dirt. Once they’re placed, move on to the next step: covering them with straw.
5. Adding the Straw
This is where the magic happens. Cover your potatoes with 8-12 inches of straw, making sure they’re completely buried. Straw creates the perfect growing environment for potatoes by keeping the soil cool, retaining moisture, and allowing the plants to breathe. It also makes harvesting super easy later on—no digging required!
Make sure you’re using straw, not hay. Hay contains seeds that can sprout and become weeds. I learned this the hard way during my first attempt at straw planting. Trust me, you don’t want to spend your summer pulling weeds instead of harvesting potatoes.
6. Watering the Bed
Once the potatoes are covered, give the straw a good watering. The goal is to moisten the straw without soaking it. Potatoes need consistent moisture to grow, but too much water can lead to rot. I usually water every few days, depending on the weather, and adjust if we’ve had heavy rain.
Pro tip: Stick your hand into the straw. If it feels damp about 2-3 inches down, you’re good. If it’s bone dry, it’s time to water.
7. Maintaining the Straw Layer
As your potatoes grow, they’ll start to poke through the straw. When the plants are about 6-8 inches tall, add another layer of straw (around 6 inches) to cover the lower stems. This will help protect the tubers from sunlight, which can turn them green and toxic. Continue adding straw throughout the growing season to keep the potatoes buried.
I check mine every couple of weeks to make sure they’re well-covered. It’s a simple step that makes a big difference in the final harvest.
Growing Potatoes in Straw Bales vs. Hay Bales
I’ve tried both straw bales and hay bales, and hands down, straw is the better option. Hay is full of seeds, as I learned the hard way. The last thing you want is to fight off a bunch of weeds while trying to grow potatoes. Plus, straw bales decompose slower, giving you a cleaner, more controlled growing environment.
Growing Potatoes in a Straw Tower
Before diving into building your potato straw tower, you’ll need a few key materials and follow some simple methods to ensure a successful harvest.
Materials Needed:
- Seed Potatoes: Select certified seed potatoes that are disease-free. You can use any variety, but common choices for straw towers include Yukon Gold, Russet, or fingerlings.
- Wire Mesh, Barrel, or Sturdy Bag: This will serve as the structure of your tower. Wire mesh is preferred because it allows airflow, but a large container or barrel works too.
- Straw: Straw acts as the growing medium. Make sure to use clean, dry straw without seeds or contaminants. Hay is not recommended as it contains seeds that can sprout weeds.
- Soil (Optional): Some gardeners like to mix a bit of compost or soil into the straw layers for added nutrients, but this is optional.
- Watering Can or Garden Hose: Potatoes grown in straw dry out faster, so regular watering is essential.
- Shovel or Hand Tools: You’ll need these for spreading straw and adding layers as the potatoes grow.
- Fertilizer: While not strictly necessary, adding a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) can give your potatoes a nutritional boost.
Methods:
1. Prepare the Tower
Choose a sunny location with at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight. Set up your tower using a cylindrical form such as wire mesh or a barrel, making sure it's sturdy and allows drainage at the bottom. The tower should be about 2-3 feet in diameter and at least 3-4 feet tall.
2. Layering the Straw and Potatoes
- Start by adding a layer of straw at the bottom, about 6 inches thick.
- Place the seed potatoes on top of this layer, spacing them about 8-10 inches apart. Ensure that the eyes (sprouts) are facing up.
- Cover the potatoes with another 6-8 inches of straw.
- Continue this layering process: as the plants grow taller, add more straw to cover the emerging stems, leaving just the top leaves exposed. Repeat until your tower is filled or the plants stop growing upward.
3. Water Regularly
Keep the straw consistently moist, but not waterlogged. Water the tower thoroughly each time the straw begins to dry out. During hot weather, this may require watering more frequently, especially if using a tower with good drainage.
4. Fertilize
Apply a balanced fertilizer every few weeks to ensure the plants get enough nutrients. You can also mix a bit of compost into the straw for extra nutrition.
5. Monitor Growth
As your potatoes grow, keep an eye on the health of the leaves. Add more straw when the plants are about 6-8 inches tall, always leaving the top leaves uncovered. This process encourages more tubers to form along the buried stems.
6. Harvesting
Once the potato plants start to yellow and die back (usually after about 90-120 days), they’re ready for harvesting. To harvest, simply remove the layers of straw to reveal your potatoes. The straw makes this process incredibly easy compared to digging in the soil!
Additional Tips:
- Frost Protection: If you live in an area prone to late frosts, cover the top of your straw tower with a frost cloth or light blanket during cold nights.
- Pest Prevention: Since straw can sometimes attract pests, consider using natural deterrents like diatomaceous earth around the base of your tower.
Growing potatoes in a straw tower is not only space-saving but also leads to minimal labor at harvest time—just peel back the straw and grab your potatoes!
How to Care for Potatoes in Straw
Once your potatoes are planted and covered with straw, the hardest part is over. However, like any garden crop, they do require a bit of care to thrive. Here’s what you need to know to keep your potatoes happy and healthy.
1. Watering
Potatoes need consistent moisture to grow well, but you don’t want them to get waterlogged. The straw will help regulate moisture levels, but you’ll still need to water regularly. Aim to keep the straw evenly moist, but not soggy. Watering every 3-4 days is usually sufficient, though you may need to water more during hot, dry spells.
A quick tip: Potatoes generally need 1-2 inches of water per week. If you’re unsure, set a small container (like a tuna can) near the plants to catch water during the week and measure how much they’re getting.
2. Fertilizing
While potatoes don’t require a ton of extra nutrition, a little fertilizer can boost your yield. I like to use a balanced organic fertilizer or compost tea every few weeks to feed the plants. Just be careful not to overdo it—too much nitrogen will cause the plants to grow lots of leaves but not many potatoes.
If you're unsure about fertilizing, you can also add a little compost or well-rotted manure to the straw when you first plant. This provides a slow release of nutrients throughout the growing season.
3. Adding More Straw
As I mentioned earlier, you’ll need to keep adding straw as the plants grow. This is called “hilling” and it’s essential to prevent the potatoes from turning green. Whenever you notice the tops of your plants getting close to the surface, add another layer of straw (4-6 inches) to keep the tubers covered.
Keep doing this until the plants stop growing tall. At that point, your potatoes are safe, and you can focus on watering and keeping an eye out for pests.
4. Protecting from Frost
If you’re growing potatoes in an area where late spring or early fall frosts are common, you’ll want to protect your plants from the cold. A light frost can kill young potato plants, so be prepared to cover them with more straw or a garden cloth if frost is in the forecast.
In colder climates, it’s a good idea to plant your potatoes after the last frost date in spring. Alternatively, you can start them in containers indoors and move them outside once the weather warms up.
Harvesting Your Straw-Grown Potatoes
One of the best parts about growing potatoes in straw is how easy it is to harvest them. You don’t need a shovel or fork—just your hands and a bit of excitement!
Here’s how to harvest:
- Wait for the plants to die back – You’ll know your potatoes are ready to harvest when the plants start to yellow and die. This usually happens about 70-100 days after planting, depending on the variety. Be patient! If you harvest too early, your potatoes might not be fully grown.
- Gently pull back the straw – Once the plants have died back, gently pull away the straw and reach in to grab your potatoes. They’ll be nestled right there under the straw, no digging required.
- Sort and cure your potatoes – Separate the potatoes from the straw and let them cure in a dry, well-ventilated spot for about a week. This will help toughen the skins and make them last longer in storage.
- Store in a cool, dark place – After curing, store your potatoes in a cool, dark spot like a basement or root cellar. Potatoes can last for several months if stored properly.
One of my favorite parts of growing potatoes in straw is the element of surprise. You never know how many potatoes are waiting under the straw until you start digging through it. It’s like a little treasure hunt every time!
Related:
Common Issues When Growing Potatoes in Straw
Even though growing potatoes in straw is relatively low-maintenance, there are still a few potential issues to watch out for. Being prepared for these will save you time and frustration down the road.
1. Drying Out
Because you’re using straw, it can sometimes be tricky to gauge how moist the soil is underneath. If the straw dries out too much, your potatoes might not grow well, or worse—they might not grow at all.
Keep an eye on moisture levels by sticking your hand into the straw to feel how damp it is. If it feels dry 2 inches down, it’s time to water.
2. Green Potatoes
Potatoes turn green when they’re exposed to sunlight. Not only are green potatoes bitter, but they’re also toxic due to a compound called solanine. To avoid this, make sure you’re regularly adding straw to cover any exposed tubers. If you do end up with a few green potatoes, toss them out or use them as seed potatoes for the next season—but don’t eat them!
3. Rotting Tubers
Overwatering or poor drainage can cause your potatoes to rot. This is more likely to happen if you’re growing them in a low area that doesn’t drain well. To prevent rot, make sure your potato bed is in a well-draining location, and be cautious with your watering schedule.
If you’re using containers or raised beds, this is less of a problem since you control the drainage.
4. Uneven Growth
If your potatoes are growing unevenly—some plants thriving while others look stunted—it could be due to uneven watering or poor-quality seed potatoes. Make sure all your plants are getting the same amount of water, and start with high-quality, disease-free seed potatoes to avoid stunted growth or disease issues.
Pests and Diseases
Photo by Gerald Holmes, Strawberry Center, Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, Bugwood.org
Potatoes aren’t immune to pests and diseases, even when grown in straw. Here are the most common issues you might encounter and how to deal with them.
1. Colorado Potato Beetle
This is the most common pest you’ll face when growing potatoes. The Colorado potato beetle is a striped, yellowish bug that loves to feast on potato leaves. Left unchecked, they can devastate your crop.
To manage them, hand-pick the beetles and their orange eggs off the plants as soon as you spot them. If the infestation is bad, you can use an organic pesticide like Neem oil or Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt).
2. Aphids
Aphids are tiny, soft-bodied insects that suck the sap from your plants, weakening them and spreading disease. They’re usually green but can also appear in colors like yellow or black. Aphids multiply fast, so it’s important to catch them early.
If you see aphids on your potato plants, try spraying them with a strong blast of water from your hose to knock them off. You can also introduce ladybugs or lacewings, which are natural predators of aphids. For more stubborn infestations, use insecticidal soap or a homemade spray of water, dish soap, and a little vegetable oil.
3. Wireworms
Wireworms are the larvae of click beetles, and they love to burrow into your potatoes, causing brown spots and tunnels inside the tubers. These pests can be hard to spot because they live in the soil. One trick I’ve learned is to set up potato traps: bury small chunks of potato just below the soil and check them every few days. If you see wireworms feeding on the bait, remove and dispose of them.
To prevent wireworms, avoid planting potatoes in areas where you've recently had grass, as they tend to be more common in freshly turned grassy soil. Crop rotation also helps—don’t plant potatoes in the same spot year after year.
4. Blight
Blight is a fungal disease that can devastate potato crops. There are two types: early blight and late blight, and both can cause dark spots on the leaves, leading to plant death if left untreated.
To prevent blight, avoid watering your potatoes from overhead—wet leaves create a perfect environment for fungal growth. If you notice blight starting, remove the infected leaves immediately and dispose of them (don’t compost). A copper-based fungicide can help prevent the spread of the disease, but catching it early is key.
5. Scab
Potato scab is a bacterial disease that causes rough, scabby patches on the skin of your potatoes. While it doesn’t affect the inside of the tuber, it can make your potatoes look pretty unappetizing.
Scab thrives in soils with a pH above 5.5, so keep your soil on the slightly acidic side. Adding organic matter like compost can help lower the pH, and avoid using fresh manure, which can make the problem worse. Once scab shows up, it’s hard to get rid of, so prevention is your best bet.
6. Slugs and Snails
Slugs and snails aren’t typically interested in the potatoes themselves, but they will munch on the leaves, potentially weakening your plants. They also love the moist environment that straw creates, so you might notice an uptick in slug activity when growing potatoes this way.
To keep slugs and snails at bay, sprinkle diatomaceous earth or crushed eggshells around the base of your plants—both will create a rough barrier that they don’t like to cross. Another trick is to set beer traps: bury small dishes of beer at soil level and slugs will crawl in and drown. It’s surprisingly effective, and, oddly enough, kind of satisfying.
Final Thoughts
Growing potatoes in straw is a game changer, whether you're a seasoned gardener or just starting out. The method is low-maintenance, eco-friendly, and incredibly rewarding—there’s nothing quite like the feeling of uncovering a pile of fresh, homegrown potatoes. Plus, it eliminates the need for heavy digging and improves soil health.
Sure, you’ll face a few challenges, like keeping the straw moist or dealing with pests, but the rewards far outweigh the effort. With a little care, attention, and the tips I’ve shared, you’ll be well on your way to a bountiful potato harvest.
So, what are you waiting for? Grab some straw, your seed potatoes, and get started! And once you've grown your own potatoes using this method, come back and share your experiences—I’d love to hear how it goes!
External resources: For more gardening tips on growing potatoes in straw, check out Maryland Grows and Gardening Know How.
FAQ
Can you grow potatoes in only straw?
Yes, you can grow potatoes in only straw! This method works because the straw retains moisture, provides insulation, and allows the tubers to grow without soil. It makes harvesting easier too since you don't need to dig—just pull back the straw to collect your potatoes.
How deep should straw be on potatoes?
When planting potatoes in straw, aim for a layer about 8 to 12 inches deep. This will provide enough coverage for the tubers to grow while keeping them insulated and protected. As the plants grow, you can add more straw to ensure they stay covered.
What is the best thing to grow potatoes in?
Potatoes grow well in various mediums, but loose, well-drained soil or straw works best. If you're using containers, a mix of potting soil and compost provides the right balance of nutrients and drainage. Raised beds, grow bags, and straw are also popular and effective methods.
How do you make potatoes sprout faster for planting?
To make potatoes sprout faster, place them in a warm, bright area for 2-4 weeks before planting. This process, called "chitting," encourages the growth of small shoots. You can also cut the potatoes into pieces with at least one "eye" each and let them dry out for a day or two before planting.